It's not fog.
The past few days have been really bad in terms of pollution. For example, my apartment is on the 11th floor, and when I can barely see the building across the street, it is not a good sign. I remember back in my freshman year at Ithaca, a friend said that if she couldn't see the Towers (which you can see from all over the city), she wouldn't go to class. If she lived in Cairo, she would never go to class.
Now I have been in my fair share of large polluted cities, but nothing, NOTHING I have seen compares to Cairo. Of course I can't find it right now, but there was a link on the HuffPo the other day about the worst polluted cities in the world. Cairo was sixth. Living here is like smoking a pack a day, and everyone smokes here too!
That being said, I have a consistent phlegmy cough. I cannot wait to return home and be coughing up crap for months. And, partly because of the amount of Shisha I consume, but mostly because of the pollution, I am positive that my lung capacity has been significantly reduced.
Monday, December 6, 2010
Friday, November 26, 2010
Things of Note
Interesting things always seem to happen in clusters, buffeted by long stretches of nothing on either side. Three episodes of note occurred/will occur; thanksgiving, my building not having water, and an election.
Thanksgiving in Egypt exists. Granted, its only among Americans, but still all the Americans got together and had a big Thanksgiving meal. Few people outside the US really understand what we do on Thanksgiving, as demonstrated by my roommate Jenny's British coworkers, who repeatedly hugged her throughout the day. I also spent a good amount of time explaining to Hisham why the day before Thanksgiving is the biggest travel day of the year. He thought it would be Christmas, but I explained that most people only get the day before Thanksgiving off, whereas winter/Christmas break starts whenever the prior week ends, so people usually have more time to get home.
My Thanksgiving was alright. The food was decent- we had chicken instead of turkey (its all bird to me!), but the company was... weird. We went to my friend Valentina's, and while SHE is super-cool, there was a group of people who were in Cairo for a day as a stop on their Mediterannean cruise who happened to know her roommate. One of them, whose name I'm not sure I ever got, made it quite clear that he was from Alaska and that he loved America. I knowingly made the potentially unwise decision of asking him about the Miller/Murkowski situation, but he's only the 2nd Alaskan I've ever met and I could not let the opportunity escape me. He declared that Murkowski had stolen- STOLEN- the election from Miller. Because, you know, winning the Primary means you should win the election. Then he started talking about how much he loved America- and let it be known that I was sufficiently dumbstruck by this point. You just don't meet die-hard America lovers and Conservatives in general in Cairo. At least not amongst the people who are here long term. Anyway, then he asked Jenny and I if we were patriots. We just looked at him, looked at each other, and then I said, "I have NO idea how to answer that question." "Well, do you love America more than 90%?" Again. Dumbstruck. After a little bit, I told him that I could not quantify my love. Afterwards, Jenny and I avoided him.
Coming up soon are the Egyptian general elections. I'm not going to write anything specific, other than that the choices are terrible and more terrible. And not in the way in the States where the not-as-terrible choice is actually pretty good. The choices are terrible. On the one hand there is an autocratic regime that has been in power for decades, and on the other are Islamists, who, at the end of the day, are a potentially worse choice, regardless of the fact that they're the "opposition." Should they get more seats, I have no doubt Egypt would be looking more like Saudi in no time. Anywho, the US embassy has advised people to stay away from crowded areas, areas with traffic, municipal building (especially schools), and that we should probably just not leave our houses. I actually had to reschedule a group project meeting that I had on Sunday downtown because we're not sure what Tahrir Square is going to look like. Also, on my way to Thanksgiving JEnny and I saw a political demonstration. At first we thought it was a wedding because they were drumming and singing and doing things that Egyptians do on weddings. Then we thought it might be a riot of some sorts, because it was all smoky and we saw flashing lights. As we got closer, however, we realized it was just a bunch of guys on a pickup truck holding up signs of one of the candidates faces. It was interesting because political demonstrations 'round these here parts can get pretty nasty, if you know what I mean. A couple demonstrators were killed in Giza the other day, and opposition candidates have a nasty habit of dying mysteriously or pulling out of races suddenly.
When Jenny and I returned from Thanksgiving, we arrived to find out that we had no water. Today, we found out that it was because our entire building has not paid a water bill in 4 months. Since everything in Egypt is done in cash, bills are usually paid by going to the office of the company. For example, every month we need to go pay our internet bill at the TE Data store, since there may as well not be addresses here, SENDING bills is generally useless. For things like utilities, we just pay our Boab (the doorman), and the collections guy from the water and electric companies comes to him and collects the money. However, they don't come every month; they come when they feel like it. So its been 4 months since we last paid, and the guy could come again in 3 weeks for all we know. Utilities here though are SO cheap. We just paid our electric bill for the first time since Jenny has been here, and it was only 140. Thats less than $25. For 6 months of electricity. Our 4 months of water that we have yet to pay will be 250LE which is less than $50.
Anyway, on to more general updatey things. I only have 1 class that I'm really worried about/invested in at this point; Human Rights in the Middle East. This week we have a moot court, and then I need to really get started on the term paper for it. I found a great new coffee shop too. I'm excited to be going home, I'm excited for my road trip, and I'm happy in general. I have also decided to take a leave of absence for the semester, and not withdraw (not sure I made that clear before), so that in the event I DO want to return to this program, I can. That is all.
Thanksgiving in Egypt exists. Granted, its only among Americans, but still all the Americans got together and had a big Thanksgiving meal. Few people outside the US really understand what we do on Thanksgiving, as demonstrated by my roommate Jenny's British coworkers, who repeatedly hugged her throughout the day. I also spent a good amount of time explaining to Hisham why the day before Thanksgiving is the biggest travel day of the year. He thought it would be Christmas, but I explained that most people only get the day before Thanksgiving off, whereas winter/Christmas break starts whenever the prior week ends, so people usually have more time to get home.
My Thanksgiving was alright. The food was decent- we had chicken instead of turkey (its all bird to me!), but the company was... weird. We went to my friend Valentina's, and while SHE is super-cool, there was a group of people who were in Cairo for a day as a stop on their Mediterannean cruise who happened to know her roommate. One of them, whose name I'm not sure I ever got, made it quite clear that he was from Alaska and that he loved America. I knowingly made the potentially unwise decision of asking him about the Miller/Murkowski situation, but he's only the 2nd Alaskan I've ever met and I could not let the opportunity escape me. He declared that Murkowski had stolen- STOLEN- the election from Miller. Because, you know, winning the Primary means you should win the election. Then he started talking about how much he loved America- and let it be known that I was sufficiently dumbstruck by this point. You just don't meet die-hard America lovers and Conservatives in general in Cairo. At least not amongst the people who are here long term. Anyway, then he asked Jenny and I if we were patriots. We just looked at him, looked at each other, and then I said, "I have NO idea how to answer that question." "Well, do you love America more than 90%?" Again. Dumbstruck. After a little bit, I told him that I could not quantify my love. Afterwards, Jenny and I avoided him.
Coming up soon are the Egyptian general elections. I'm not going to write anything specific, other than that the choices are terrible and more terrible. And not in the way in the States where the not-as-terrible choice is actually pretty good. The choices are terrible. On the one hand there is an autocratic regime that has been in power for decades, and on the other are Islamists, who, at the end of the day, are a potentially worse choice, regardless of the fact that they're the "opposition." Should they get more seats, I have no doubt Egypt would be looking more like Saudi in no time. Anywho, the US embassy has advised people to stay away from crowded areas, areas with traffic, municipal building (especially schools), and that we should probably just not leave our houses. I actually had to reschedule a group project meeting that I had on Sunday downtown because we're not sure what Tahrir Square is going to look like. Also, on my way to Thanksgiving JEnny and I saw a political demonstration. At first we thought it was a wedding because they were drumming and singing and doing things that Egyptians do on weddings. Then we thought it might be a riot of some sorts, because it was all smoky and we saw flashing lights. As we got closer, however, we realized it was just a bunch of guys on a pickup truck holding up signs of one of the candidates faces. It was interesting because political demonstrations 'round these here parts can get pretty nasty, if you know what I mean. A couple demonstrators were killed in Giza the other day, and opposition candidates have a nasty habit of dying mysteriously or pulling out of races suddenly.
When Jenny and I returned from Thanksgiving, we arrived to find out that we had no water. Today, we found out that it was because our entire building has not paid a water bill in 4 months. Since everything in Egypt is done in cash, bills are usually paid by going to the office of the company. For example, every month we need to go pay our internet bill at the TE Data store, since there may as well not be addresses here, SENDING bills is generally useless. For things like utilities, we just pay our Boab (the doorman), and the collections guy from the water and electric companies comes to him and collects the money. However, they don't come every month; they come when they feel like it. So its been 4 months since we last paid, and the guy could come again in 3 weeks for all we know. Utilities here though are SO cheap. We just paid our electric bill for the first time since Jenny has been here, and it was only 140. Thats less than $25. For 6 months of electricity. Our 4 months of water that we have yet to pay will be 250LE which is less than $50.
Anyway, on to more general updatey things. I only have 1 class that I'm really worried about/invested in at this point; Human Rights in the Middle East. This week we have a moot court, and then I need to really get started on the term paper for it. I found a great new coffee shop too. I'm excited to be going home, I'm excited for my road trip, and I'm happy in general. I have also decided to take a leave of absence for the semester, and not withdraw (not sure I made that clear before), so that in the event I DO want to return to this program, I can. That is all.
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Big Decisions
So, if you are one of my 13 loyal followers, 12 of whom I know and 1 of whom works for my Dad, you have noticed that as much as I am recounting my epic tales of glory, heartache, daring adventure, and startling banality, you have also noticed that this blog is a post-grad existential crisis journal. (That, by the way, is a doozy of a sentence. The best edit wins a prize!)
And, after much rumination and a fair amount of wandering in the proverbial woods, I have made a decision concerning my future here in Cairo, and my future in general......
I am dropping out of grad school.
This decision comes from these points of discussion:
1. Going to grad school right after college was more of a decision for the sake of having a decision made, rather than a real passion and drive, or desire to actually continue with school.
2. Coming to Egypt seemed like the biggest adventure, which was a big part of my decision. Not because I had any sort of marked interest in Arab or Egyptian culture or Arabic language.
After I decided not to continue with school, I had a brief internal struggle regarding whether or not I should stay in Egypt. I decided not to, after considering these points.
3. As per point 2, it was not Egypt that brought me to Egypt, but Grad school, which I no longer want to do.
4. I have no desire/no qualifications to work at an NGO, I don't want to work in a school, and few expats who work for Egyptians/Egyptian companies actually enjoy their jobs (most of them love Cairo). The only expat I know who likes her job is Jenny, and she works at the British school and shadows an autistic boy.
And so, come January 7th when I fly home, I will be coming home for good. The next step is figuring out what to do next.
I have decided that I definitely want to take extended trips to the Ithaca area, New York, and the DC area. New York and DC specifically to see people, but Ithaca for more than that. Not only do I want to see my friends, I also want to talk to some of my professors whom I never gave a proper goodbye, and along with that some closure. For as much time as I spent trying to get the hell out of there, I realize only now how much I really loved it. Alas, they paved paradise. Along with the trips, I will also look for -prepare yourselves- actually better yet, prepare MYself- A REAL JOB. Not that there are any and not that I'm counting on finding one, but I totally know a couple people with jobs who could help me get an interview somewhere. If only this were Egypt, then I could just ask for a job and my relatives would be almost obligated to give me one. Except that minimum wage here is 80le a MONTH (yeah, $16 a MONTH, even though theres legislation in the works to raise it to a minimum of 200le/mo). I am also going to study for and take my GRE's, as grad school IS in the future- just not now, and in a subject that I actually want to do.
I am also planning on a massive, nation-wide road trip. My fun and kitschy pre-concept is "48 States in 48 Days." I am going to at least drive through every state (VT, NH, DE, etc will probably be afforded no more than a stop for gas and a picture), couchsurf with all my friends around the country, and be the tourist I've always wanted to be! It is going to be SUPER awesome and my friend Kendra might even join me for the whole thing! However, I feel like if I truly enjoy a place, or come upon some opportunity or other, that I may stay somewhere. Portland was recommended to me by my friend Sam, on account of my plaid shirt and that I like the Decemberists (a band from Portland). My camp director also offered to make up a job for me should I choose to go back to camp this summer. Should that be my decision, I would need to be there June 4.
So, in the likely event that a real job doesn't happen, I am also looking at things to fill up the next school year. I am looking at City Year and other AmeriCorps things, which would also help should I choose to apply for the Peace Corps. I am also kiiiiind of looking at TFA, but I am not really keen on the commitment, as the going to camp in the summer of 2012 is very important to me. I'm not sure WHAT I'll do. But I'll figure it out.
I know this is a big decision, and I know that some of you may be put-off by it. But it is the right decision. This I know because I am happy about it and excited for my unplanned future.
And, after much rumination and a fair amount of wandering in the proverbial woods, I have made a decision concerning my future here in Cairo, and my future in general......
I am dropping out of grad school.
This decision comes from these points of discussion:
1. Going to grad school right after college was more of a decision for the sake of having a decision made, rather than a real passion and drive, or desire to actually continue with school.
2. Coming to Egypt seemed like the biggest adventure, which was a big part of my decision. Not because I had any sort of marked interest in Arab or Egyptian culture or Arabic language.
After I decided not to continue with school, I had a brief internal struggle regarding whether or not I should stay in Egypt. I decided not to, after considering these points.
3. As per point 2, it was not Egypt that brought me to Egypt, but Grad school, which I no longer want to do.
4. I have no desire/no qualifications to work at an NGO, I don't want to work in a school, and few expats who work for Egyptians/Egyptian companies actually enjoy their jobs (most of them love Cairo). The only expat I know who likes her job is Jenny, and she works at the British school and shadows an autistic boy.
And so, come January 7th when I fly home, I will be coming home for good. The next step is figuring out what to do next.
I have decided that I definitely want to take extended trips to the Ithaca area, New York, and the DC area. New York and DC specifically to see people, but Ithaca for more than that. Not only do I want to see my friends, I also want to talk to some of my professors whom I never gave a proper goodbye, and along with that some closure. For as much time as I spent trying to get the hell out of there, I realize only now how much I really loved it. Alas, they paved paradise. Along with the trips, I will also look for -prepare yourselves- actually better yet, prepare MYself- A REAL JOB. Not that there are any and not that I'm counting on finding one, but I totally know a couple people with jobs who could help me get an interview somewhere. If only this were Egypt, then I could just ask for a job and my relatives would be almost obligated to give me one. Except that minimum wage here is 80le a MONTH (yeah, $16 a MONTH, even though theres legislation in the works to raise it to a minimum of 200le/mo). I am also going to study for and take my GRE's, as grad school IS in the future- just not now, and in a subject that I actually want to do.
I am also planning on a massive, nation-wide road trip. My fun and kitschy pre-concept is "48 States in 48 Days." I am going to at least drive through every state (VT, NH, DE, etc will probably be afforded no more than a stop for gas and a picture), couchsurf with all my friends around the country, and be the tourist I've always wanted to be! It is going to be SUPER awesome and my friend Kendra might even join me for the whole thing! However, I feel like if I truly enjoy a place, or come upon some opportunity or other, that I may stay somewhere. Portland was recommended to me by my friend Sam, on account of my plaid shirt and that I like the Decemberists (a band from Portland). My camp director also offered to make up a job for me should I choose to go back to camp this summer. Should that be my decision, I would need to be there June 4.
So, in the likely event that a real job doesn't happen, I am also looking at things to fill up the next school year. I am looking at City Year and other AmeriCorps things, which would also help should I choose to apply for the Peace Corps. I am also kiiiiind of looking at TFA, but I am not really keen on the commitment, as the going to camp in the summer of 2012 is very important to me. I'm not sure WHAT I'll do. But I'll figure it out.
I know this is a big decision, and I know that some of you may be put-off by it. But it is the right decision. This I know because I am happy about it and excited for my unplanned future.
Procrastination and Eid
So, I guess its about time I wrote another one of these ;). Seeing as I have done nothing... NOTHING this past week, I shall now procrastinate on all the reading I didn't do by writing a post.
So, this past week was Eid al-Adha, somewhat akin to Thanksgiving in that all Egyptians (and Muslims, for that matter), go kill sheep/goats and hang out with their families for a few days. It is the 2nd Eid holiday of the Muslim calendar. Whereas the first Eid brings the month of Ramadan to an end (where Muslims fast/eat/refrain from worldly pleasures like sex/ during daylight hours, and stay up all night/gorge themselves/bone/ during the night), this Eid commemorates when Abraham almost sacrificed Isaac because of his devotion to the Big Guy. As Honest Abe's knife was a-comin' down, the BG was all like, "Yo Dude, this shit's whack. And Rack of Lamb/Goat sounds a whole lot more appetizing than Rack of Isaac." And so, we sacrifice a goat or lamb in honor of our undead children.
On the roof across from my window, they had a goat tied up for a couple days before hand. Unfortunately, I slept through the slaughter. They do it WAY early in the morning, because killing, skinning, draining, butchering, cooking, and eating is kind of a to-do. However, when I woke up, there was a nice wet spot where the slaughter had been and some goat skins drying on the roof. With the goat, a third of the meat is reserved for you/your family, a third for friends and relatives, and the final third for the poor. I didn't take pictures, unfortunately. I was reminded only after the goat disappeared of an art project my sister did based on a news article about an Egyptian guy who got kicked off his roof by a goat awaiting slaughter. Served him!
In Ma'adi, becuase it's streets are wider and there's generally more space, the blood was not really flowing through the streets. However, you could definitely see and smell the remnants for quite a few days after the actual Eid. In other, and especially in poorer parts of Cairo, the streets apparently flow with the blood of sacrificed goats. It was on Sunday in most Arab countries except Morocco, where it was on Monday- according to Hisham- who's family lives in Rabat- Morocco claims that things are usually a day later becuase the phases of the moon hit later. The Muslim calendar, like the Jewish calendar, is lunar, so the Gregorian date's don't matter as much.
As my friend Michelle put it, Eid is a great time to really reflect on the preciousness of all life, and a time to give thanks and appreciate all that we get from animals. As for me, it was a time to reflect on and appreciate a week off, not that I am particularly lacking down time, but still. Unfortunately, all my travel plans were waylaid by illness. First by me with a nasty head cold and what I think was a mild case of food poisoning, and then both Jenny AND Hisham got sick. So, for most of the week we were all cooped up in the apartment either being sick or helping each other out. Also, Jenny and I were considering going to Petra but researching what it entailed to get there put us off. To get there, it would be a 12ish hour bus ride to Taba, a ferry from Taba to Aqaba in Jordan (which, by the way could take all day, only leaves twice a day, and only takes US dollars), and then another 3 hour bus ride to Wadi Musa, the town right outside of Petra. It was really the Ferry that put us off, becuase the other option would be to go through Israel which could potentially take just as long. After we realized that Petra might not be the best option, we decided that Alexandria would be the best place to get out of Cairo for a bit, as its a quick easy day/overnight trip. However, we all got sick, so there was no traveling at all. We did, however, find some good new cafes around Ma'adi, and I went to a dinner party where the host made some delicious chili.
So, all in all it was a good break that could have been better, but was ultimately impeded by things out of my control. Thus, I am at peace with it. But more traveling needs to be done!
So, this past week was Eid al-Adha, somewhat akin to Thanksgiving in that all Egyptians (and Muslims, for that matter), go kill sheep/goats and hang out with their families for a few days. It is the 2nd Eid holiday of the Muslim calendar. Whereas the first Eid brings the month of Ramadan to an end (where Muslims fast/eat/refrain from worldly pleasures like sex/ during daylight hours, and stay up all night/gorge themselves/bone/ during the night), this Eid commemorates when Abraham almost sacrificed Isaac because of his devotion to the Big Guy. As Honest Abe's knife was a-comin' down, the BG was all like, "Yo Dude, this shit's whack. And Rack of Lamb/Goat sounds a whole lot more appetizing than Rack of Isaac." And so, we sacrifice a goat or lamb in honor of our undead children.
On the roof across from my window, they had a goat tied up for a couple days before hand. Unfortunately, I slept through the slaughter. They do it WAY early in the morning, because killing, skinning, draining, butchering, cooking, and eating is kind of a to-do. However, when I woke up, there was a nice wet spot where the slaughter had been and some goat skins drying on the roof. With the goat, a third of the meat is reserved for you/your family, a third for friends and relatives, and the final third for the poor. I didn't take pictures, unfortunately. I was reminded only after the goat disappeared of an art project my sister did based on a news article about an Egyptian guy who got kicked off his roof by a goat awaiting slaughter. Served him!
In Ma'adi, becuase it's streets are wider and there's generally more space, the blood was not really flowing through the streets. However, you could definitely see and smell the remnants for quite a few days after the actual Eid. In other, and especially in poorer parts of Cairo, the streets apparently flow with the blood of sacrificed goats. It was on Sunday in most Arab countries except Morocco, where it was on Monday- according to Hisham- who's family lives in Rabat- Morocco claims that things are usually a day later becuase the phases of the moon hit later. The Muslim calendar, like the Jewish calendar, is lunar, so the Gregorian date's don't matter as much.
As my friend Michelle put it, Eid is a great time to really reflect on the preciousness of all life, and a time to give thanks and appreciate all that we get from animals. As for me, it was a time to reflect on and appreciate a week off, not that I am particularly lacking down time, but still. Unfortunately, all my travel plans were waylaid by illness. First by me with a nasty head cold and what I think was a mild case of food poisoning, and then both Jenny AND Hisham got sick. So, for most of the week we were all cooped up in the apartment either being sick or helping each other out. Also, Jenny and I were considering going to Petra but researching what it entailed to get there put us off. To get there, it would be a 12ish hour bus ride to Taba, a ferry from Taba to Aqaba in Jordan (which, by the way could take all day, only leaves twice a day, and only takes US dollars), and then another 3 hour bus ride to Wadi Musa, the town right outside of Petra. It was really the Ferry that put us off, becuase the other option would be to go through Israel which could potentially take just as long. After we realized that Petra might not be the best option, we decided that Alexandria would be the best place to get out of Cairo for a bit, as its a quick easy day/overnight trip. However, we all got sick, so there was no traveling at all. We did, however, find some good new cafes around Ma'adi, and I went to a dinner party where the host made some delicious chili.
So, all in all it was a good break that could have been better, but was ultimately impeded by things out of my control. Thus, I am at peace with it. But more traveling needs to be done!
Friday, October 29, 2010
Poor Little Rich Boy, or What Do I Do With My Life?
Gadzooks its been a while! On the one hand, that’s a bad thing- none of y’all know what’s going on! On the other hand, it’s a good thing, because there’s been nothing going on!
Also, I had a huge midterm that was scary. We had 24 hours to write a 3500-word midterm. That’s 7 pages single-spaced, though mine ended up being around 6 and a half. And it was difficult. There were three parts- a quote that we had to discuss, readings to compare, and then a law problem. The law problem was the hardest- I do NOT think like a lawyer at all.
The night after the midterm (Wednesday), I went out to a beledi bar with my friend Matt. It was actually quite a great bar; there was no sign, the door was unmarked, and it was tiny. However, there was cheap beer (12LE for a 16oz bottle! AND you can even get it cheaper elsewhere!) and free mezze (appetizers). Like all beledi bars, they had those salty beans ( I THINK they’re fava, but I’m not sure), but there was also a plate of cucumbers, tomatoes, and really salty goat’s milk cheese, as well as a plate of rocket/arugula (are those the same thing?)
The conversation, however, was the highlight of the night. Matt is 30, and is at the tail end of a good 4 years of non-stop travelling. He hasn’t been in the same place for this long in that entire time- and he’s only been in Egypt for 2 months. In other words, he is at the end of a path that I have seriously considered for myself. We also had similar feelings about the program. Both of us enjoy it greatly, but are not really that into it. For him, he is here because he feels that if he doesn’t go to grad school now, it might not ever happen. I’m in grad school now because, well, being in school is easy for me and I’m good at it.
We talked about the ups and downs of extensive travel, about rootedness, and about goals in life and whatnot. I’ve never actually written down my goals; and in fact I could not tell you what any of my long-term goals are. Most everything that I thought I wanted to do in college is no longer something I want to do. Like being a professor- spending my life in a research library no longer seems like fun. But I do want to live in NYC for a while. I want to live in Chicago. I want to teach at some point. I want to take a cross-country road trip. I want to go WWOOFing. I want to learn an actual skill like bookbinding or wheel-wrighting or something thoroughly medieval. I want to travel with a good friend. I want to have a 9-5 job and pay my own bills and be excessively boring. I want to become a really good cook. I want to learn how to blow glass.
None of those were long-term goals though. Eventually I want a grad degree… but in something that I am more than just interested in. And I’m not actually sure if that’s a goal of mine, or something that I see as a necessity? I want to be happy. I want a cool living outdoor living space…
I think I’m in an instant-gratification phase. Get all the stuff I want to do out of the way before I settle down. So really what I have to ask myself is being here and in grad school furthering any of my goals. Well- I’m living in another country, so I can check that one off my list. But other than that… I’m not so sure. I mean, I LOVE living here. I’m happy, its fun, I’ve made some really good friends, and it has thus far been a very good experience. But was I merely scratching my itch (or itching my scratch) to live in another country and quelling my regret at having not studied abroad during undergrad? Very possible.
Anyways, I’m off to the US Embassy for the Halloween party. And happy birthday Sarah!
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Some Stuff
My stress has been manifesting itself in very strange ways recently- it has become more physical than anything else really. For example, today I had a really weird stress-induced day of nothing. I woke up early to go to New Campus to get some administrative stuff done (visa stuff and activating my buss pass), but when I woke up, I was greeted with a panic attack. And I was worried about things that I KNEW were irrational- but for some reason I stopped myself from going to New Campus. Instead, I decided that Iwas going to get a bunch of reading out of the way. So, I set myself up in the living room to get some work done…. And then I fell asleep until 4. I was talking to Jenny about it, and apparently things like this are normal. Regardless of whether I’m feeling it emotionally (or rather, letting myself feel it emotionally), I have been a fish out of water for over a month- and my entire self is still adjusting.
In terms of Visa stuff- I am officially on an over-extended visa! I will have to go to the Mugamma (State department building I think? It’s where they do all of the passport and visa stuff), which is across the street from campus, and pay an extra fine to get my student visa. Oh well, apparently its only like 60LE (around $12). If I DON’T take care of it, apparently all that happens is they hold you up in the airport, you slip some $$ to the guys, and go on your merry way. Don’t worry Mom, I’m going to get it sorted out. At the Mugamma, you go through the lines, fill out the paperwork, and then they tell you to come back in a few hours. Apparently if you get there first thing in the morning, the whole process is done by 1 or 2.
This weekend, I went to Khan Il Khalili- the traditional market in Cairo. It was your standard souk- the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul was MUCH more intense, but there were still the merchants trying to screw you out of money, the catcalls of “Hey Sir, I don’t know what you’re looking for but I probably have it!” and the cute kids trying to get you to go to THEIR shop instead of going to the other cute kid’s shop. I went with my Egyptian American friend Nedda, so it was nice bartering with an Arab by my side. It lends an air of legitimacy, no? Anyway, we picked up a couple Shisha pipes- one for her, and one for a birthday gift for Jenny, and only paid 85LE for each, or about $17. According to Nedda, that was STILL a little much! Afterwards, we went to a rooftop café with some awesome views- it was a very good night!
In my search of looking for things to do, I have sent several emails to people, and have yet to receive any responses. So… still not doing a whole lot. In the meantime, I’m going to start going to New Campus on Sundays and Thursdays to be in the library and to go to the gym. That will at least be something.
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Updates and the Like
So, as it has been a week since my bad days, some updates are in order...
1)Debit Card Fiasco
So- Wednesday I went to the bank at which I left my debit card. The guy called the guy who called the guy, and they did indeed have my card.... at another branch. So, the guy gave me directions to the other bank and on my merry way I went. I failed. So I went back to the guy again and got directions again. I failed again. Then, for a final and third time, I went back and got directions... again. "Go out over there, take a right, a left on Kasr el Aini, and take a left maybe 300 meters, and it is down that street." False, dude. Very False. I walked, and walked, and walked. Asked several people where this bank was, and nobody seemed to know. And then.... Then I asked a Boab- the doormen who essentially sit outside the buildings all day and do things for the people who live in them. Most collect your trash, take your laundry, direct delivery guys to your apt, etc. So I asked this boab... "Street, street, street, left. Yes?" So I took his advice, and as I looked down that 3rd street, what did I see but a hint of Orange that signified the bank I was looking for. Could it be? YES! It turned out to be a quick process actually, I asked for the guy, he took my passport and came back with my card. I signed for it, and ta-da! Lesson learned (begrudgingly, as I have vowed not to learn any lessons from things that make me miserable): when lost, ask a boab. They actually live in the neighborhood. They know where shit is- unlike everyone else.
2) Class and Burnout
So, it turns out that I am much more burnt out than I originally anticipated going right from undergrad to a master's program. Doing homework here is hard as it is, there are few places quiet enough, with good enough lighting, or with consistent internet. Most places have 2 out of the 3, and very few have all 3. That being said, getting myself to sit down and do all the work, let alone finding a place to do it, is VERY hard. The worst part is that I LOVE sitting in class and the lectures and what not, but I am finding myself wishing that I took some time off before grad school.
In terms of class, I am taking Intro to Humanitarian Law, International Law, and Human Rights in the Middle East. The first two classes I am actually finding fairly easy- I have a lot of prior knowledge about the things we are talking about from Model UN in college. I do actually LOVE my International Law class. My professor, Thomas Skouteris, is this frenetic little Greek man who chain smokes during our hourly breaks from class. He makes lots of little jokes and is very good at explaining things in law-speak and then in actual words. I am thinking that I will ask him to be my thesis advisor maybe??
My Human Rights in the Middle East class is hard as hell- but SO interesting. So far, we have only talked about Sharia' "law" and Islamic law, and are just now getting into how Human Rights fits in. The professor is a doctoral candidate who's thesis is due in December, and she is VERY intense and asks very hard questions and does not let you get away with bullshit! So, in essence, everything I learned in college is useless ;). Seriously though, she is very challenging and her reading is the most interesting. However, since I have NO background in Islamic law structures, it is very hard to keep up when Arabic words are thrown around to describe things.
3) Moving
Not doing it. Not yet, anyway. First, its a TERRIBLE time to move. At least when looking at the expat community (which is the easiest/most reliable way to get an apartment), which doesn't have much movement now because its the middle of the semester. Also, as isolated as Ma'adi is, its quite nice, quite easy to live in, and nothing is really WRONG with where I live. So I might start looking again towards the end of the semester, but for now I am going to stay put. Also, I know how to get home from the Corniche (road that runs along the Nile), so thats good. Now I need to learn how to get home from the Autostrad (the road that runs around Cairo). I actually had to decline an invitation to go out in Nasr City because it would mean having to take a cab on the autostrad. I know the only way to learn is to try- but just getting out of the house here takes a lot of energy and pumping yourself up. Every time I am successful in my outings and get back home with little or no incident I congratulate myself. Fortunately that is becoming more and more frequent- but this is not an easy city to live in and I'm taking it one day at a time.
3) The Future
So I am going to start looking for a tutor to go around with and learn all the useful language. I'm thinking I am going to bypass the FusHa (modern standard arabic), and just work with Ameyya (the Egyptian dialect). The difference, essentially, is that FusHa is like speaking in Shakespeare while Ameyya is like speaking in Ebonics. It is considered a very low-class form of Arabic, and while it is the standard dialect for most Arabic media, it is often made fun of. Also, like Shakespeare, nobody actually SPEAKS FusHa, most countries have their own dialects. Its just that if you know FusHa, you'll understand and be understood most places. Speaking Ameyya; non-Egyptians will understand you, but you won't understand non-Egyptian Arabic.
I am also starting to look for an internship or volunteer opportunities. The problem is that Egyptian NGO's require you to be fluent in Arabic, and most of the UN-affiliated ones either require you to be fluent in French, or have qualifications that are way above me. There is one through AMERA, a UK based refugee NGO, that would have me interviewing and preparing briefs for people seeking refugee status from the UNHCR (UN High Commissioner of Refugees), but I am WAY underqualified for it. I am not sure if I am going to apply for it- I might wait to do it for next fall when I will at least have a year of coursework under my belt.
On the social front, I have a fun weekend ahead of me! On Saturday, I am going on a Felucca ride down the Nile with the Law department, so I am looking forward to meeting more people- it should be lots of fun. Also, I am going to go to a Baladi bar with my friend Chelsea. A Baladi bar is a local bar that basically only serves beer. Apparently you get a table, raise your hand, and they bring you a beer. Lather, rinse, repeat. Alcohol IS illegal here in theory, but it seems that nobody really cares, especially if you're a foreigner. I'm interested to see how it works if this is a "local" bar though.
1)Debit Card Fiasco
So- Wednesday I went to the bank at which I left my debit card. The guy called the guy who called the guy, and they did indeed have my card.... at another branch. So, the guy gave me directions to the other bank and on my merry way I went. I failed. So I went back to the guy again and got directions again. I failed again. Then, for a final and third time, I went back and got directions... again. "Go out over there, take a right, a left on Kasr el Aini, and take a left maybe 300 meters, and it is down that street." False, dude. Very False. I walked, and walked, and walked. Asked several people where this bank was, and nobody seemed to know. And then.... Then I asked a Boab- the doormen who essentially sit outside the buildings all day and do things for the people who live in them. Most collect your trash, take your laundry, direct delivery guys to your apt, etc. So I asked this boab... "Street, street, street, left. Yes?" So I took his advice, and as I looked down that 3rd street, what did I see but a hint of Orange that signified the bank I was looking for. Could it be? YES! It turned out to be a quick process actually, I asked for the guy, he took my passport and came back with my card. I signed for it, and ta-da! Lesson learned (begrudgingly, as I have vowed not to learn any lessons from things that make me miserable): when lost, ask a boab. They actually live in the neighborhood. They know where shit is- unlike everyone else.
2) Class and Burnout
So, it turns out that I am much more burnt out than I originally anticipated going right from undergrad to a master's program. Doing homework here is hard as it is, there are few places quiet enough, with good enough lighting, or with consistent internet. Most places have 2 out of the 3, and very few have all 3. That being said, getting myself to sit down and do all the work, let alone finding a place to do it, is VERY hard. The worst part is that I LOVE sitting in class and the lectures and what not, but I am finding myself wishing that I took some time off before grad school.
In terms of class, I am taking Intro to Humanitarian Law, International Law, and Human Rights in the Middle East. The first two classes I am actually finding fairly easy- I have a lot of prior knowledge about the things we are talking about from Model UN in college. I do actually LOVE my International Law class. My professor, Thomas Skouteris, is this frenetic little Greek man who chain smokes during our hourly breaks from class. He makes lots of little jokes and is very good at explaining things in law-speak and then in actual words. I am thinking that I will ask him to be my thesis advisor maybe??
My Human Rights in the Middle East class is hard as hell- but SO interesting. So far, we have only talked about Sharia' "law" and Islamic law, and are just now getting into how Human Rights fits in. The professor is a doctoral candidate who's thesis is due in December, and she is VERY intense and asks very hard questions and does not let you get away with bullshit! So, in essence, everything I learned in college is useless ;). Seriously though, she is very challenging and her reading is the most interesting. However, since I have NO background in Islamic law structures, it is very hard to keep up when Arabic words are thrown around to describe things.
3) Moving
Not doing it. Not yet, anyway. First, its a TERRIBLE time to move. At least when looking at the expat community (which is the easiest/most reliable way to get an apartment), which doesn't have much movement now because its the middle of the semester. Also, as isolated as Ma'adi is, its quite nice, quite easy to live in, and nothing is really WRONG with where I live. So I might start looking again towards the end of the semester, but for now I am going to stay put. Also, I know how to get home from the Corniche (road that runs along the Nile), so thats good. Now I need to learn how to get home from the Autostrad (the road that runs around Cairo). I actually had to decline an invitation to go out in Nasr City because it would mean having to take a cab on the autostrad. I know the only way to learn is to try- but just getting out of the house here takes a lot of energy and pumping yourself up. Every time I am successful in my outings and get back home with little or no incident I congratulate myself. Fortunately that is becoming more and more frequent- but this is not an easy city to live in and I'm taking it one day at a time.
3) The Future
So I am going to start looking for a tutor to go around with and learn all the useful language. I'm thinking I am going to bypass the FusHa (modern standard arabic), and just work with Ameyya (the Egyptian dialect). The difference, essentially, is that FusHa is like speaking in Shakespeare while Ameyya is like speaking in Ebonics. It is considered a very low-class form of Arabic, and while it is the standard dialect for most Arabic media, it is often made fun of. Also, like Shakespeare, nobody actually SPEAKS FusHa, most countries have their own dialects. Its just that if you know FusHa, you'll understand and be understood most places. Speaking Ameyya; non-Egyptians will understand you, but you won't understand non-Egyptian Arabic.
I am also starting to look for an internship or volunteer opportunities. The problem is that Egyptian NGO's require you to be fluent in Arabic, and most of the UN-affiliated ones either require you to be fluent in French, or have qualifications that are way above me. There is one through AMERA, a UK based refugee NGO, that would have me interviewing and preparing briefs for people seeking refugee status from the UNHCR (UN High Commissioner of Refugees), but I am WAY underqualified for it. I am not sure if I am going to apply for it- I might wait to do it for next fall when I will at least have a year of coursework under my belt.
On the social front, I have a fun weekend ahead of me! On Saturday, I am going on a Felucca ride down the Nile with the Law department, so I am looking forward to meeting more people- it should be lots of fun. Also, I am going to go to a Baladi bar with my friend Chelsea. A Baladi bar is a local bar that basically only serves beer. Apparently you get a table, raise your hand, and they bring you a beer. Lather, rinse, repeat. Alcohol IS illegal here in theory, but it seems that nobody really cares, especially if you're a foreigner. I'm interested to see how it works if this is a "local" bar though.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)